Asia, U.S.S.R., Climbs in Soviet Asia, 1965

Publication Year: 1967.

Climbs in Soviet Asia, 1965. According to Der Berkamerad, on August 12, 1965 twenty-nine members of a Lithuanian-Esthonian expedition to the Pamir-Alai Range climbed Pik Lenin (23,406 feet) from the Krilenko Pass via the first-ascent route. Pik Kommunisma (formerly Pik Stalin; 24,590 feet) was climbed from the Beliava Glacier on August 12 to 19 by a group from the Army Sports Club. The north face of 16,962-foot Dschigiti (Jigiti (?)) in the Tien Shan was climbed for the first time by Aleksander Riabukhin, Vladimir Samokhvalov, Valentin Makovetzki and Olga Trubnikova. It was the third ascent of the peak, which is the second highest of the Terskey-Ala-Tau Range. Alpinismus reports that a Czech expedition on July 28 climbed Pik Lenin. The climbers were Miroslav Maly and his wife Marta, František Lehár, Rostislav Caletka and Pavel Winternitz. Eight members of a Lithuanian expedition climbed Pamir-of- the-Pamirs (18,061 feet), which is a southern spur of the Transalai in the northeastern Pamirs. The climb which received the prize for the most difficult climb above 5000 meters of the year 1965 was the first ascent under the leadership of E. Eltshibekov of Pik Kommacademie (21,129 feet), which had previously been attempted three times. On July 14 A. Piankov, V. Voronin, A. Liabin, H. Yakhin and G. Krukovsky left their Fedchenko Glacier Base Camp and attacked the precipitous southwest face. It took them eleven days and eight camps or bivouacs to reach the summit up steep rock and ice, and three more days to descend.