AAC Publications - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org

Asia, India—Garhwal, Tirsuli

Tirsuli. This twin-peaked mountain, which rises near Hardeol above the Milam Glacier in eastern Garhwal, should not be confused with Trisul, which lies on the other side of Nanda Devi. It had first been attempted in 1939 by a Polish expedition but the climb was abandoned when Karpinski and Bernadzikiewicz were buried in an avalanche. Two Indian expeditions led by M. S. Kohli in 1964 and by K. P. Sharma in 1965 also failed. The Himalayan Association Calcutta Expedition of 1966 under the leadership of Chanchal Mitra was successful. Base Camp was established at Nital Thaur on the left side of the Milam Glacier at 14,000 feet. Camp I was at 15,500 feet at the foot of the southeast ridge of Tirsuli. Camp III was placed at 19,000 feet on September 29 and Camp IV was pitched at 20,500 feet on the east face near the icefall at the junction of the Tirsuli and Chilab Glaciers. From Camp V at 21,800 feet the assistant leader N. Mallik and S. Chakravorty and two Sherpas climbed to the higher eastern summit (23,210 feet) of this difficult mountain on October 9. Details appear in Alpinismus of February, 1967.