South America, Peru—Cordillera Huayhuash, Mexican Expedition

Publication Year: 1967.

Mexican Expedition to the Cordillera Huayhuash. We left Chiquián on June 11 and spent until the 22nd in the region of the Jirishancas. We spent much of our time trying to find a way up the glacier to the base of Jirishanca, which was very steep, badly crevassed and threatened with séracs. We also worked on the glacier between Rondoy and Ninashanca, hoping thus to find a way to avoid the steeper part of the Jirishanca Glacier. During the course of this latter climbing, we all reached the crest of the north ridge of Ninashanca (apparently not the summit — Editor). Finally by climbing the right bank of the latter glacier, we reached the base of Jirishanca and found the camp made there in 1964 by Patterson. The members of the expedition were Jesús Magaña Anzurez, Rafael Saraiba Vargas, Leoncio Montero Lima, Juan Quintana Salvatierra, Jesús Corona del Rosal, Luis Camilo Mendoza Manrique and I as leader.

Rubén Garcia Tovar, Socorro Alpino de México