American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Peru—Cordillera Blanca, Ishinca, Yanamarey Group, and Minor Peaks North of Alpamayo

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1967

Ishinca, Yanamarey Group, and Minor Peaks North of Alpamayo. My wife and I came the whole way up the Amazon to Pucallpa and then by road to Huánuco. After a look at the Cordillera Huayhuash, we went on to Huaraz in the Cordillera Blanca and to the Quebrada Ishinca, camping by Pakliashcocha. After excursions to the glaciers and passes around Ranra- palca, on June 19 we climbed to the ice below Ranrapalca. The ice was easy to ascend to the crest of the southwest ridge of Ishinca. We continued toward the northeast along the ridge over the top of Ishinca ( 18,143 feet). Beyond this was very broken ice and it was indeed formidable. It is hard to say how far we went along the ridge towards Palcaraju, but I think we must have come to Palcaraju Oeste (20,046 feet). We then left for the area around the Punto Cahuish and camped left of the road near the tunnel. On June 26 we went up into the corry where there is a tiny lake and bore left up steep detritus and frozen snow to a pass. We climbed a moderately difficult rotten rock ridge to the right (northeast) to P 5115 (16,781 feet). The next day we went straight up from the tunnel, climbed slabs and a steep gully choked with highly unstable rocks to a small, quite steep glacier and finally to the summit of Yanamarey Sur (17,126 feet; first ascent by the Swiss Ernst Reiss and Dr. Georg Hartmann, July 20, 1965. The altitude is incorrectly given in A.A.J., 1966, 15:1, p. 166 — Editor.) On the 28th we climbed on the other side (south) up grass slopes to tiny lakes and to a rock ridge, moderate in difficulty but unpleasant in places with loose rock. Above we climbed on detritus to the red, appallingly loose rock ridge and to the top of P 5141 ( 16,867 feet). A week later we went into the Quebrada Alpamayo, a rather long three-day walk. From a camp at the lakes below Pilanco Sur (Goody’s "Dos Lagunas”), on July 11 we climbed the lowest three peaks (about 16,500 feet) on the end of the ridge that descends from Tayapampa, close to the col between that peak and Pilanco Sur. One was the top of difficult rocks seen from the lakes, the middle one was a little ice dome and the third, towards Tayapampa, was a moderate short rock ridge of some 300 feet.

A. L. Cram, Alpine Club

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