AAC Publications - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org

South America, Peru—Cordillera Blanca, Attempts on Chinchey and Huascarán

Attempts on Chinchey and Huascarán. Graham Stephenson, leader, Russ and Donna Rasmussen, Erick Schmacher and I from the USA and David Corona, Ramón López, Humberto Zúñiga, Benjamin Casasola and Mariano Aguilera of Patrol 22 of the Mexican mountain rescue organization, Socorro Alpino México, made up our expedition. In mid-June we ascended the Quebrada Honda to Base Camp at 14,100 feet. Camp I was at 15,750 feet and Camp II at 17,700 feet just north of the Chinchey saddle. We made three attempts on Chinchey on successive days, stopped by soft snow at 20,000 feet on the south ridge, at 19,000 feet by white-out and at 19,700 feet when a solo attempt on the northwest ridge turned back for want of a belay. With only a week left we headed for Huascarán, selecting the standard route from Mancos to the Garganta. Base Camp was at 13,800 feet, Camp I at 16,750 feet and Camp II at 18,375 feet. Two attempts ended at 19,000 feet in crevasses and steep ice. Lack of time dictated our return. We did not encounter great technical difficulties, but the group climbed too slowly for the time allotted.

George Barnes