American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing
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South America, Peru—Cordillera Blanca, Cajavilca

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1967

Cajavilca. The Canadians John Ricker, Lisle Irwin and Dr. Karl Tomm were joined in the Quebrada Ulta by Scots David Todd and James Gardner. The latter two unsuccessfully tried a new route, the south ridge of Contra- hierbas. The whole group then attempted its west ridge, but they had to give up a little beyond a subsidiary peak because of the length. The Scots left to try a peak on the ridge to Hualcán and Dr. Tomm departed, his vacation being over. Ricker and Irwin crossed the pass into the Quebrada Ichic Ulta, whence on July 22 they made the first ascent of Cajavilca (17,881 feet)* from a 15,250-foot camp on its northern slopes; they abandoned the traverse from Cajavilca to its southerly neighbor, P 5670 ( 18,603 feet) as too dangerous because of falling ice. Instead they climbed the latter on July 27 by its northwest ridge. After reaching the top, they continued south along the snowy crest to make another first ascent that day of P 5770 (18,931 feet).

*The altitudes given by Ricker are considerably lower than those found on the German-Austrian Alpine Club map of 1932. On the latter, north of Contrahierbas, there are only two peaks shown, the more southerly P 5960 (19,534 feet) and Cajavilca (5775 meters or 18,947 feet).

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