American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Greenland, Swiss East Greenland Expedition

  • Climbs And Expeditions
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  • Publication Year: 1967

Swiss East Greenland Expedition. Max Gubser, Heiner Hagenbuch, Max Zumbühl, Ruedi Sauser, Chäpp Schindler, Otto Häfliger, Ueli Imdorf and I as leader spent eight weeks in the mountains of the so-called Schweizerland on the east coast of Greenland. Our chief objective was climbing in the region northeast of the Glacier de France. Schindler and I arrived at Angmagssalik a month early to practice dog-sledding. On July 7 the expedition set out from Sangmilik Fjord, eight hours by boat from Kung- miut. We had two boat-shaped dog-sleds and a hand-sled, which we had built ourselves of Fiberglass. The fjord which lies to the side was chosen as our approach because a small glacier there reached the sea and would let us use the sleds at the earliest opportunity. Because of the lack of snow on the uneven, crevassed ice a great deal was demanded of the sleds. After 17 days of approach by sled we set up the first climbing camp on the Glacier de France. This was a region previously untouched by mountaineers. The climbing began anywhere from sea-level to 2000 feet. We always had long approaches on foot over bare ice and very steep pitches at the beginning of the climbs sometimes on glaciers and sometimes on rock. We took bivouac equipment along not infrequently and stayed up to four days away from camp. The weather was very favorable from the middle of July to the middle of August. In all we made 28 first ascents. The most important were Eisdom (8393 feet), Pusugssivit (6798 feet), Donnersbjerg (7678 feet), Istind (7546 feet), Monarch (7546 feet). We also made the second ascent of imposing Laupersbjerg (8465 feet). Most climbs were made by parties of three or four. The most distant camp lay on the upper part of the Pourquoi Pas Glacier, 100 miles from our point of departure. We returned by a different route to Tasilaq Fjord near the hamlet of Kungmiut.

Sigi Angerer, Swiss Alpine Club

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