American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Greenland, Mount Forel

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1967

Mount Forel. The second Greenland expedition of Nihon University was led by Hiroshi Nakajima. They traveled from Angmagssalik to Kungmiut, the innermost village of the fjord, and then on to Sioralik. After a sledge trip of 25 days, they arrived at the Forel camp, which was farther in than the 1965 Japanese camp. Although Forel’s summit was not visible, the Avantgarden group rose beautifully to the south and in back of them were Pilz and Table Mountain. Just after midnight on July 27 all members left Base Camp. Though the glacier was fairly steep, the lower part was easy, but the upper part was at higher angle and of blue ice; they placed 100 meters of fixed rope. Between them and the summit were the Snow Dome and the Ice Dome. It was easy as far as the former, but between them lies a narrow, unsteady ice ridge. They fixed a 50-meter rope beyond the Ice Dome and rappelled into the col. From there they ascended an ice slope to reach the summit of Forel (11,025 feet; second ascent) at three P.M. On the 29th Kinju Ikeda, Tsugio Satsukime and Tadao Kanzaki went around the east to the northern side of Forel and climbed Sydbjorg (9186 feet). The rest, Hiroshi Makajima, Noboru Onoe and Miyoshi went east of Forel and made the second ascent of Perfekt (9843 feet; first ascent by André Roch, Piderman, Baumann, 1938). Attempts on the Avantgarden group failed. Ikeda, Satsukime and Kanzaki explored the interior from Forel. With ten days’ provisions they sledged between Avantgarden and Bobbeltaarnet and camped at 8500 feet on the snow plateau on August 2. The next day they got to 67° 02' N. and 36° 12' at 8200 feet, where on the 3rd they climbed a beautiful 9908-foot peak (Blue Fuji) with sides of blue ice. On the 4th they sledged 12 miles southeast to the southern foot of P3060. On the 6th they continued along the Kristians Glacier, crossed a 7875-foot pass to the glacier south of Avantgarden, where they bivouacked under the highest peak (10,630 feet). They reached their rendezvous with the others early the next morning on the Paris Glacier. Meanwhile the other three climbed in the Guldnaalene group. On August 2 they ascended a snow dome (8530 feet) north of Guldnaalene. On the 4th they climbed another 8530-foot dome southwest of the first one. On the 5th the first and third of the five needles in the center of the Guldnaalene group were climbed. After they ascended four other peaks in the west of the group, they went to the rendezvous. On the evening of the 8th they were unexpectedly visited by the Imperial College party. The British climbed the highest of the Guldnaalene group and so they gave up that objective. Ikeda, Satsukime and Kanzaki on August 9 entered the valley between Pilz and Table Mountain and made the first ascent of the latter ( 9843 feet ). Being short of food, they started back to the coast on August 10, accompanied by the British. They met the leader of the Imperial College party at the Midgard Glacier pass. From the Col du Poulies, Nakajima, Ikeda and Miyoshi made the second ascent of the 8858-foot peak to the west of the pass. (First ascent by the Swiss, Gubser, 1963.) They reached the coast at Sioralik on August 20 without incident.

Ichiro Yoshizawa, Japanese Alpine Club

This AAJ article has been reformatted into HTML. Please contact us if you spot an error.