American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Canada, Bugaboos, Northpost Spire, North Face

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1967

North post Spire, North Face. When studying aerial photographs, we noted that the north face of Northpost Spire, almost closer to the Bobbie Burns group than to the remainder of the Bugaboos, presented a long unclimbed wall above the terminus of the Vowell Glacier. Jerry Fuller and I traversed ridges from Cobalt Lake on August 20 and then descended moraine slopes to the lowest granite of the wall, some 2000 feet below the summit. Here we found climbing of moderate difficulty, often on down- slabbing rock, not as sound as the usual Bugaboo standard. We used 15 pitons for safety and probably would have placed more protection at awkward spots if there had been adequate cracks.

Fred Beckey

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