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North America, Canada, Canadian Rockies, Mount Vérendrye, East Face

Mount Vérendrye, East Face. The precipitous limestone cliffs of Mount Vérendrye are among the more spectacular sights along the Kootenay Highway near Vermillion Crossing. The steep east face was unclimbed. From a camp at the head of the narrow valley at its foot, on August 16 Jerry Fuller and I climbed bush and talus slopes to the glacier beneath the wall. Once on the dark rock, we selected a minor rib on the face that kept clear of rockfall and patchy ice and led directly to one of the eastern summits of the peak. The rock was not always sound, and we were most thankful for what piton protection we could get on three of the harder pitches. We used a total of 20 pitons on the climb, all for safety.

Fred Beckey