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North America, United States, White Mountains—New Hampshire, Cannon Mountain, YMC Dike

Cannon Mountain, YMC Dike. On September 17 John Reppy, Bob Crawford and I ascended the "YMC Dike,” adding a second NCCS IV to the list of Eastern climbs. (See also A.A.J., 1966, 15:1, p. 147.) In the middle of the face just left of the Conn Buttress a geological dike rises in a beautifully straight line steeply toward the summit. 1st pitch: While belayed from a nearby ledge 20 feet up, ascend flakes toward overhang and work left under overhang (F7) up and then right, stepping out around the overhang and up into an inside comer facing left. Placing a pin under the flake above its top (watch loose rock), pendulum over to thin broken section (or ascend free from inside corner up left on F9 friction). Climb to belay at right side of the hole (F7). 165 feet. 2nd pitch: Ascend right side of hole, keeping right, then up left inside corner over grassy ledge to a step-around point to the left (F7). Ascend left toward an obvious inside corner facing right. At its top and to the right are belay ledges. 145 feet. 3rd pitch: Climb directly updike delicately because of its egg-shell composition. A rotten corner is passed on the way to the second overhang, which is surmounted with a high pin on the right. Clearing the overhang requires a rurp and tied-off knife-blade (A3). Belay at the first ledge. 130 feet. 4th pitch: The blankest looking pitch from the road had the most delightful F6 flake which rose past an inside corner facing left. Above, A2 nailing went left over the overhang, then up and back right to free climbing beyond the third overhang to belay ledge. 120 feet. 5th pitch: Free climbing and then a pin or two of aid allow entry into a shallow inside corner facing left. At its top, reach high to place a pin at the back of a down-sloping ledge. Step up in slings and free climb (F7) for 15 feet. Another aid step and F7 free move bring one to grassy ledges. 120 feet. 6th pitch: On the second ledge the prospect of a bivouac because of probable difficulties on blank slabs above induced us to traverse right, to rappel 70 feet and to traverse further in the Conn route. The direct finish would involve two slabs with two or three leads to the top.

T. P. (Sam) Streibert