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North America, United States, Colorado, East Face of Longs Peak

East Face of Longs Peak. Larry Dalke, Wayne Goss and I climbed a new route on the Diamond of Longs Peak, the "Diamond-7” route. We followed a fairly straight crack system to the left of the four previously climbed Diamond routes. With the exception of the final lead and a half, this ten-pitch climb was primarily direct aid. The pitons used ranged from knife-blades to four-inch bongs. No bolts were needed. We started the climb on Saturday afternoon, August 20 and reached the summit early on Monday morning. The actual climbing time on the Diamond was sixteen hours. We bivouacked once below the Diamond on Broadway after fixing ropes on the first three leads and again near the top of the Diamond on Table Ledge. On September 3 to 5 Jonathan Hough and I climbed a route halfway between the Obelisk, a square-cut flake just left of the "Diamond-7” route, and a route first climbed in 1950 by Eubank and van Diver called the "Window.” The distinctive feature of our route is a steep, 200-foot dihedral, the "Hypothenuse.” We fixed two ropes on Saturday, returned to Broadway for the night and completed the climb on Sunday. The "Hypothenuse” route has three artificial and four free leads, the first two being the same as the first two leads of the "Window.” (NCCS: IV, F6, A3.)

George Hurley, Marmots