American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Wyoming—Wind River Range, Wolf's Head, South Face

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1967

Wolf’s Head, South Face. One of the last unclimbed problems in the Cirque of the Towers region was the Wolf’s Head south face. I had not given it serious consideration until September 7, when Jerry Fuller and I arrived early at its foot wondering if we could manage the slabby wall in one day. The route we chose lies almost in mid-face, and climbs some 800 feet up a devious chimney and flake system to the upper east ridge. Surprisingly, several overhangs in the lower chimney went free, though they were difficult. Very exposed aid climbing took us to the outer edge of some giant, evil-looking, but hopefully solid flakes, one perched atop the other. After climbing a strenuous jam-crack in the main dihedral a crux slab (F8) led to cracks toward the summit ridge. After spending about an hour trying to get worthless protection on the slab, I mustered the courage to do it, so ending the serious difficulties. In all, 40 pitons were employed.

Fred Beckey

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