American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Wyoming—Wind River Range, "Buffalo Head," Northeast Face

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1967

"Buffalo Head,” Northeast Face. The long ridge running north from Lizard Head and Camel Hump culminates in a beautiful bell-shaped formation between Washakie and South Fork Lakes. In search of an appropriate name for this strategic rock mass, I settled on "Buffalo Head.” Its true east face completely overhangs. On September 5, Jerry Fuller and I made a most enjoyable and often difficult route, the first up its big faces, just to the right of the overhangs. A deep chockstoned chimney provides three strenuous leads, and at one point direct aid was needed. A total of 30 pitons were used on the ascent, largely for protection on the slabby flakes of the exposed outer face. The rock could not have been better.

Fred Beckey

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