American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Wyoming—Tetons, Disappointment Peak, South Central Buttress, Variation

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1967

Disappointment Peak, South Central Buttress, Variation. A new climb (II, F5) on this broad buttress was made on August 9 by Sherman Lehman, William Hooker, and W. E. Kirkpatrick. This party started below the bottom of the Merriam Couloir, taking to its end a red ledge cutting across the base of the buttress. Two pitches up a red chimney led to some small pine bushes. Instead of taking a gray gully above, they climbed up and right to a small cave, then continued on to the right under a prominent yellow nose until near the Direct East Corner Variation. The yellow tower directly above was passed on the left to reach a knife-edge ridge which was taken to the grassy slopes of the main Disappointment saddle.

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