AAC Publications - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org

North America, United States, Wyoming—Tetons, Mount Moran, South Buttress Variation

Mount Moran, South Buttress Variation. On August 13, 1965, Peter Cleveland, Roland Fleck, and Jack Stauffer made an important variation on the standard south buttress route. From the second grassy ledge of that route a traverse was made to the west, continuing for 1½ rope-lengths along a sloping ledge. The route then passed right and up over three steps of increasing difficulty to a good belay ledge at the corner of the south face west of the south ridge. The next lead, diagonally up and right across a "thin” face, involved F9 climbing to a wall below a sloping ledge. This wall was passed using aid and the party then traversed left to a belay ledge. After the small overhang was passed, the climb went right to an open-book. One more lead, followed by scrambling, led to the top of the first large step of the south ridge, where the standard route was rejoined.