North America, United States, Wyoming—Tetons, Mount Teewinot, North Face Variation

Publication Year: 1967.

Mount Teewinot, North Face Variation. This important face is nearly bisected by a large chimney-couloir which parallels the Emerson Chimney about 125 feet to the left (north and east). While routes on both sides of this prominent feature had been climbed many times in past years, it remained for Rick Reese, Mike Ermarth, and Ralph Tingey to make the first climb of this chimney on July 28, 1965. Their climb commences at the ledge which diagonals across the face toward the base of the Emerson Chimney. After 50 feet in the couloir itself, the party climbed out onto the left (north) wall using a difficult, diagonal jam-crack which required an awkward layback in order to reach the large chimney filled with loose blocks at the end of the first lead. The second and third leads went first up this chimney for 60 feet, then right around a corner to some large, steep blocks leading to a small overhang and then to the summit ridge. One significant problem with this route is the rockfall generated by parties climbing the summit ridge just above this route.