North America, United States, Idaho, Chimney Rock, South Nose

Publication Year: 1967.

Chimney Rock, South Nose. Northern Idaho’s famed ridgetop landmark, Chimney Rock, yielded its fourth and perhaps most spectacular route on August 11 when Jerry Fuller and I scaled the thin and sometimes overhanging south nose. We used a total of 24 pitons and two bolts, keeping on the edge of the nose as much as cracks would permit. We used direct aid in obvious bong-bong cracks, but found that some surprising, though difficult, sections near the summit went free.

Fred Beckey