Mount Goode, East Buttress. One of the most magnificent alpine faces of the northern Cascades, Mount Goode’s northeast wall sweeps 3000 feet to its granite summit. In 1954 John Parrott and I climbed the ice apron and steep slabs of the direct northeast face. This summer, on August 6, Tom Stewart and I threaded through the ice corridors and crevasses of the Goode Glacier to the foot of the grand buttress flanking this face, which leads directly to the highest point of the mountain. A tongue of névé took us to the crest of the buttress. For three leads we had an awkward problem of unsound rock, but thereafter the granite was exceptional. Only where the buttress steepens and narrows some 500 feet under the summit did we place iron for safety. Here we had steep and exciting climbing, but an abundance of sound holds kept the difficulty moderate.

Fred Beckey