American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Alaska, Takhinsha Mountains

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1967

Takhinsha Mountains. The rugged Takhinsha Mountains, west of Haines, were explored for the first time in June. Our party consisted of David Chappelear, Gil Dewart, Robert Rickey, Dave Seidman and me as leader. We were landed at 4000 feet on the "Jajee” (Snowshoe) Glacier, a branch of the Casement Glacier, by bush pilot Layton Bennett of Haines. We made seven first ascents of peaks, to which we gave Tlingit Indian names: north snow summit of Mount "Tlingit Ankawoo” (Chief; c. 7400 feet) by north ridge from east side. (The main summit, highest in the Takhinsha Mountains, c. 7550 feet, was not reached, two attempts failing because of bad weather and lack of time on June 9 and 13.); Mount "Adi” (Mother; 6452 feet) by east ridge and north face, June 7; Mount "Doo-see” (His Daughter; 6025 feet) from east, June 11; Mount "Yeet” (Son; 6075 feet) by east ridge, June 14; Mount "Dech” (Two; 7475 feet), second highest peak, climbed from east side by north snow ridge, June 19; Mount "Klelchlu” (Butterfly; 7300 feet) by south face, June 21; Mount "Kotan” (Summer; 7300 feet) by west face, June 21. Although the elevations are not high, most of the peaks are extremely rugged and from the north side rise nearly from sea level. A full article and map appear in Appalachia of December, 1966.

Lawrence E. Nielsen

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