American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Alaska, Bona and Churchill

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1967

Bona and Churchill. The Alpine Club of Tokyo University of Education Expedition was composed of Tamao Tokuhisa, leader, Hideki Yamamoto, Koji Saito, Makoto Kobayashi, Jiro Kenmochi and Takao Inukai. I was to have been of the party, but family illness prevented my going. The expedition was landed by light plane on the Klutlan Glacier on July 24 and set up Base Camp at 10,000 feet. On July 27, during reconnaissance for the best routes, Kenmochi and Inukai climbed an unnamed peak of 14,916 feet, 2½ miles northeast of Mount Bona. On July 29 they set up Camp I at 11,300 feet almost at the top of the glacier. Advancing up the glacier, they had to take great care with hidden crevasses. On the 31st they moved to 14,100 feet just under the north ridge of Bona and set up Camp II. Attempts on the summit that day and the next failed. On August 2 Saito and Yamamoto got to the summit (16,500 feet) with fine weather. This is, we believe, the fourth ascent. On the 4th Kobayashi, Kenmochi and Inukai repeated the ascent, an exhausting business, but not of remarkable difficulty. On August 5 the latter three climbed Mount Churchill (15,638 feet) also from Camp II, the second ascent. (This is the north peak of Mount Bona. — Editor.) Step-cutting on the steep south ridge under the summit was a rather tough job. From August 6 to 11, they were engaged in glaciological work at Base Camp. The plane took them back to Glenallen on August 12.

Toru Yoshitomi, Alpine Club of Tokyo University of Education

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