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North America, United States, Alaska, Mount Marcus Baker, Second Ascent, and Mount Goode, First Ascent, Chugach Range

Mount Marcus Baker, Second Ascent, and Mount Goode, First Ascent, Chugach Range. On April 20 Eric Barnes, flying for Alyeska Air Service, set Helmut Tschaffert and me down at 8000 feet on the Knik Glacier between Marcus Baker (13,176 feet) and Goode (10,610 feet). In the following eight days of excellent weather, we climbed these two peaks, skied down the glacier and walked out the Knik River gravel bars to the highway bridge. The afternoon of the 20th and the 21st were spent carrying food and equipment toward Marcus Baker. High camp was at 10,500 feet. The next day crampons replaced skis at 12,000 feet. We reached the summit via the snow and icy crust of the west face in the bright sun. That afternoon and the next day we approached Mount Goode. On the 24th we skied up the east side of Goode to within a few hundred feet of the summit, completing the ascent on crampons and in kicked steps. The trip out the Knik was over varied and exciting ground. The first day-and-a-half provided long ski runs down the right of the glacier. At Grasshopper Valley Helmut walked a while along the glacier fork of the Knik, then took to the glacier again and finally walked along the left side of the Knik River. At one of the many stream crossings, the water rose above his waist. Meanwhile I followed the canyon of the glacier fork to where it joined Metal Creek and then came out onto the gravel bars. Descending to Metal Creek took two rappels. The second dropped onto a snowbridge across the creek. The right side of the Knik has numerous shallow streams that must be crossed, and at the bend there is a surprising amount of quicksand which must be navigated.