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Harvard Mountaineering Club

Harvard Mountaineering Club. The year 1965 was an outstanding one for the H.M.C., with members taking part in significant ascents on at least three continents. It was also a tragic year, with Ed Bernd, vice- president elect, and Craig Merrihue, a former president, being killed in climbing accidents. The first ascent of the west face of Mount Huntington in Alaska’s McKinley Range ended tragically when Bernd’s rappel failed on the descent. Matt Hale, Don Jensen, and Dave Roberts also participated in the climb. Boyd Everett, leader, Jim Alt, Gus Benner, Ed Bernbaum, Dave Redmond, and Lee Story made the first ascent of the northwest ridge of Mount St. Elias. Everett also led the expedition which made the first ascent of Mount King George in the St. Elias Range in April. Robin Hartshorne, Bob Jahn, Steve and Ruth Jervis, Sandy Merrihue, and Mike Wortis attempted 22,450-foot Bandako in Afghanistan’s Hindu Kush. Adams Carter joined in the first ascent of Yahuar- raju and Rurec in Peru’s Cordillera Blanca. Hank Abrons, Charlie Bickel, Ernie and Pete Carman, and Rick Millikan in a two-day climb made the first ascent of the north ridge of North Twin near Mount Alberta in the Canadian Rockies. As usual the club maintained a full schedule of local climbing. Each of Huntington Ravine’s five ice gullies was ascended several times on club trips, and rock climbs were held nearly every weekend in the spring and fall to the Shawangunks or to New Hampshire. Members were prominent in the unsuccessful effort to save the lives of Dan Doody and Craig Merrihue, who had fallen from high in Pinnacle Gully on Mount Washington. The club has established a fund in memory of Craig, and proceeds from it will be used to buy books for our library.

The 17th issue of our biennial journal, Harvard Mountaineering, issued in May. Thanks to editor Burt Redmayne and the financial support of alumni members, the journal lives up to the high standards set by its predecessors. The wide scope of its contents — from McKinley to Chacra- raju — provides as good proof as could be demanded that the long tradition of Harvard mountaineering is still vital.

Matthew Hale, Jr., President