American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Attempt on Khinyang Chhish

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1966

Attempt on Khinyang Chhish. Our expedition was comprised of 13 graduates or students from the Tokyo University Ski Alpine Club: Dr. Hirotsugu Shiraki, leader, Dr. Shingi Ishikawa, deputy leader, Kuniyuki Ito, Katsuji Shimoishizaka, Shoji Seki, Kei Abe, Takeo Nakamura, Ryuko Nishitani, Keisuke Murakami, Akitake Makinouchi, Katsuhiko Kano, Kan- taro Ogura, Kuniaki Inoue, and the Pakistani Mohammed Asif, whose language and climbing skills helped us a great deal. The reconnaissance party left Nagar on June 18 and spent five days on the Khinyang Glacier trying in vain to find any possible route to the summit on the western side. On the 27th Base Camp was established at 12,750 feet beside the Hispar Glacier, at the foot of the south ridge, which had been tried by the English-Pakistani team in 1962. We placed Camp I on the spur at 15,750 feet, Camp II at 17,400 feet where the spur meets the southeast ridge and Camp III beyond the junction of the southeast and southwest ridges at the Bull’s Head and before the Ogre, a vertical rock tower. By July 17, Camp IV was settled on the Snow Dome at 19,350 feet; a snowstorm from July 28 to August 7 forced us to stay there for nine days. Camp V was at 20,650 feet on the First Tier, Camp VI at 22,650 feet on the Ice Cake, and Camp VII at 23,000 feet just below the Rock Peak. Two more summits, Triangle Peak (24,275 feet) and Tent Peak (25,250 feet), still separated us from the summit of Khinyang Chhish (25,762 feet). Difficult rock, ice walls, sharp knife-edged ridges with complicated cornices and crevasses all the way from Camp II to Temporary Camp VIII had forced us to use up all the rope we had for fixing. On August 19, five climbers set out to Camp VIII just a day’s climb from the summit. On their way, at 23,600 feet, a narrow snow ridge suddenly collapsed and Takeo Nakamura fell far below to the Khinyang Glacier. All the rest rushed back to Base Camp and began to search for his body, but nothing could be found. All in deep sorrow, we left Base Camp on August 27.

Hirotsugi Shiraki, Tokyo University Alpine Ski Club

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