Diran or Minapin. This expedition of the Kyoto Mountaineering Federation was led by Ryuichi Kodani and consisted of Mitsugi Koyama, Mikio Nakayama, Shinichi Hotta, Naoki Takada, Yuzuru Tsuchimori, Tadashi Takahashi, and Dr. Sokichi Saito. A two-man reconnaissance party had already done its work from June to August in 1963. Starting from Japan in May, they got to work on the 23,862-foot peak in June. During the last five days of the expedition, Tsuchimori and Koyama pushed to within 250 feet of the summit but because of the strong wind and whirring snow, they turned their backs on the top and began their final descent toward their highest camp (22,000 feet); owing to the sunset they had to bivouac at about 23,500 feet. This was the last try of the expedition.

Ichiro Yoshizawa, Japanese Alpine Club