AAC Publications - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org

Asia, Pakistan, Darban Zom, Hindu Kush

Darban Zorn, Hindu Kush. An Austrian expedition traveled by Jeep over the Lowari Pass and through Chitral into the Mastuj valley. From there they went by pack train to Shagrom. Base Camp was at 15,000 feet by the Darban Glacier. Camp I was established at 17,300 feet and Camp II at 19,800 feet, but bad weather and avalanche danger drove them back. Several days later they set out again despite the precarious snow on Noshaq’s northern slopes which they had to traverse to reach Darban Zom. After Markus Schmuck, Uli Kössler and Helmuth Larcher reached Camp II again, they moved a bivouac camp higher to 21,000 feet. On September 12 they climbed ice slopes to a ramp which gave access to the basin between Noshaq and Darban Zom, from which Kössler and Schmuck climbed an ice slope up the southern side to the summit of Darban Zom (23,688 feet). Larcher had to give up 800 feet from the top. Meanwhile on the same day Hans Egger, Dieter Drescher, and Schmuck’s son Christian climbed the peaks north of Camp I, traversing from Q6 (20,473 feet) to M9 (20,538 feet). Drescher and Larcher climbed Udren Darban Zom (20,899 feet) on September 15. (Originally these were two separate expeditions that joined forces in the field.)