American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Dhaulagiri II

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1966

Dhaulagiri II. An expedition of the Aichi Mountaineering Federation failed to climb Dhaulagiri II (24,775 feet). It consisted of Hiroshi Sugita, leader: Jujin Oki, Akira Kato, Kazuo Hiramatsu, Yutaka Hirose, Masayoshi Osawa, Tatsuya Amano, and Nobuo Matsuoka. As early as March 28 they were on their way to reconnoiter the route from the Kali-Gandaki valley from Dankar-dzong, north of Tukuche, towards Mukut and Base Camp. They met a big avalanche and the Sherpas Lhagpa Gelbu and Mingma Tensing lost their lives while Oki, Osawa and another Sherpa had narrow escapes. The main expedition did not cross the 18,000-foot pass until mid-April and was 66 days on the way before reaching Base Camp! They climbed the Chorten Ridge of Dhaulagiri II. On May 10 the Sherpa Jhamang Tensing slipped at about 18,000 feet while on reconnaissance for Camp IV and fell about 1000 feet, breaking his legs and hip. He had to be carried out to Kathmandu as fast as possible. This became the last reason for the entire withdrawal from the mountain.

Ichiro Yoshizawa, Japanese Alpine Club

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