Asia, Nepal, Attempt on Kangbachen

Publication Year: 1966.

Attempt on Kangbachen. A 12-man Yugoslav expedition, led by Joze Govekar, attacked Kangbachen, the 25,926-foot west peak of Kangchen- junga. Colonel James Roberts has kindly sent us details. They left Dharan Bazar in eastern Nepal in mid-August, getting to Ghunsa in the beginning of September. After a reconnaissance, they decided to make their attempt from the north. Base Camp was at 16,000 feet on the Ramthong Glacier. Camp I at 17,700 feet, Camp II at 19,000 feet and Camp III at 20,650 feet were in still easy terrain, which steepened before they reached Camp IV at 22,300 feet. Two Yugoslavs, Ljobo Juvan and Metod Humar, and the Sherpas Girme Dorje and Holung Dorje reached this camp on October 6 and somehow failed to realize that equipment for a Camp V had been carried higher. They set out on the 7th for the summit from IV and did get to the western summit ridge at 24,725 feet, but they were still over a mile away and had to return. Girme was joined by the Yugoslavs Tone Sazonov and Pavle Dmitrov and the inexperienced Sherpas Dakia and Karma. The five established Camp V at 23,150 feet at the top of a traverse of the north face. While Karma stayed in camp sick, the other four on October 14 climbed to the summit ridge at 24,775 feet. At that point, at four p.m., the Yugoslavs decided to bivouac, but the Sherpas returned to camp. When the latter ascended the next morning, they found Sazonov and Dmitrov already descending and rather seriously frostbitten. The weather was generally unfavorable throughout the expedition.