Lhotse Shar. A Japanese expedition from Waseda University made an attempt on Lhotse Shar (27,504 feet). They were Hisao Yoshikawa, leader; Teruo Matsuura, Masahiko Iguchi, Yoshio Hamano, Noburu Kaburaki, Takaaki Narukawa, Aoi Murai, Tatsuo Sato, Seiji Yamamoto, Kenji Shiratori and Shuzo Miyamoto. Base Camp was established on March 14 at 17,400 feet on the main Lhotse Glacier. A ten-day reconnaissance made them decide on the south and southeast ridge, which rises from a col with Island Peak, east of the glacier. They pitched Advanced Base (19,029 feet) on March 26, Camp II (20,650 feet) on April 3, Camp III (21,650 feet) on April 8, and Camp IV (23,000 feet) on April 17. On the 18th Narukawa slipped and fell some 150 feet and was severely hurt. After spending the night out, he was severely frostbitten. It cost them ten days to bring him down to Camp II. During the rescue days, the fine weather ended. A second attack party started up again and established Camp V at 24,000 feet. On May 15 Matsuura and Iguchi climbed from this camp but at 26,750 feet found a deep gap, some 650 feet down, and decided to withdraw.

Ichiro Yoshizawa, Japanese Alpine Club