American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Ngojumba-Ri

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1966

Ngojumba-Ri. The Alpine Club of Meiji University sent out Misao Watanabe, leader; Susumu Takahashi, climbing leader; Yoshihiro Fujita, Shinichi Hirano, Takeo Odaka, Masanao Kobayashi, Masuru Irisawa, Teiyu Nagao and Naomi Uemura. They reached Namche Bazar on March 16 and established Base Camp at 17,400 feet on the Ngojumba Glacier on the 22nd. Camps were established as follows: I (18,800 feet) on March 26; II (20,350 feet) on April 10; III (21,325 feet) on April 18; IV (22,300 feet) on April 21. The first attack was made the next day by Hirano, Kobayashi and Mingma Tsering, but they turned back after nine hours. On April 24 Uemura and Pemba Tenzing climbed to the summit (26,610 feet) in twelve hours. They had to bivouac at 24,250 feet on the descent. (This is not a separate peak but rather a high and difficult minor summit on the ridge between Gyachung Kang and Cho Oyu. — Editor.)

Ichiro Yoshizawa, Japanese Alpine Club

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