American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing
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South America, Argentina, Puna de Atacama

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1966

Puna de Atacama. The International Atacama Expedition was active in the southern part of the Puna de Atacam during the first quarter of 1965. The members were Mathias Rebitsch, Austrian; Benjamin Dixon, Sergio and Joan Domicelj, Argentines; and Verena and Anders Bolinder, Swedes. We started from Fiambalá, Cajamarca Province, Argentina. Our first Base Camp was at Tres Quebradas, at 14,000 feet, from which Rebitsch and Dixon went to Chile to climb the Volcán Azufre or Copiapó (19,921 feet; third ascent in this century, following prehistoric Indian ascents). At the same time Sergio Domicelj alone made the first ascent of the west peak (19,520 feet) of the Cerro de los Patos. After moving farther north, we divided into two groups. My wife and I succeeded in making the first ascent of Cerro Bertrand (c. 18,000 feet) and from the summit discovered an enormous volcanic crater more than two miles wide. Shortly afterwards I climbed Cerro Morocho II (17,780 feet) with the muleteer V. Bustamante and then completed a photographic panorama of the whole Ojos del Salado chain. Rebitsch and S. Domicelj meanwhile climbed the Cerros dos Conos I (19,225 feet). Unfavorable snow conditions prevented all ascents above 20,000 feet. The expedition ended in April.

Anders Bolinder, Sweden

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