American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Argentina, Aconcagua, South Face

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1966

Aconcagua, South Face. As we go to press, news reaches us of two new ascents on the south face of Aconcagua, previously climbed only by the French expedition of 1954. An Argentine group followed the French route, setting to work on January 5, 1966. After preparing the route and establishing two camps, on January 19 Omar Pellegrini and Jorge Aikes, supported by Willy Noll, Horacio Thidcke and Jean Pierre Demay, pushed their way upwards. They finally reached the summit on February 2. Meanwhile an international expedition was planning to attempt a new route on the south face, which would lead directly to the south rather than the north summit, where the French had gone. The leader was the Austrian Fritz Moravec. He was accompanied by twelve Austrians, four Germans, four Swiss, an American, Dr. Robert Charles Eberle, and the Argentine José Luis Fonrouge. After some training climbs in the Cordon de la Jaula, they turned to Aconcagua. On February 9, 1966 Fonrouge and the Austrian Hans Schönberger, reached the summit after a final push of three days. The expedition plans to continue its activities in the Merce- dario group.

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