American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Bolivia, Yugoslav Expedition to Cordillera Real, 1964

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1966

Yugoslav Expedition to Cordillera Real, 1964. Under the leadership of Aleksander Blazina, Alojz Golob, Martin Mihelic, Alojz Steblaj, Franc Savenc and Dr. Ivo Valic left LaPaz on July 26, 1964 for the Huayna Potosí group. (For complete details with maps see Planinski Vestnik, April 1965.) Base Camp was on the Zongo Pass at 15,400 feet. In the next week they climbed Huayna Potosí (19,996 feet) to the east of the pass and six peaks on the west of it: in the first ridge, from north to south Ayllaicu (17,389 and 17,340 feet), Cuticuchu (16,404 feet) and Pico Fraternidad (16,568 feet) ; in the second ridge, farther west, Maman- cota (17,061 feet) and Cunatincota (17,553 feet). From there they traveled directly to the Condoriri group, where they set up Base Camp at 15,000 feet. They set up two high camps, one under Condoriri (18,556 feet), which they climbed, as well as Ala Sur* (17,985 feet) a half mile to the south; in the ridge north of Condoriri in order from south to north: Ala Norte (18,149 feet), P5380 (17,561 feet), P5395 (17,700 feet), P Medio* (17,666 feet), Eslovenia* (17,651 feet) and P5300 (17,389 feet); in the ridge to the northeast from north to south: Reya* (18,029 feet), Yugoslavia* (18,061 feet) and P5400 (17,717 feet); in the ridge to the west, from east to west: P5300 (17,389 feet), P5280 (17,323), Dolgi Hrbet* (16,978 feet) and P5225 (17,142 feet). From camp under Wyoming they climbed that peak* (17,924 feet) and in the ridge south of Wyoming from east to west Innominado* (17,454 feet), Pequeño Alpamayo (17,487 feet), P5250 (17,225 feet), Tarija (17,192 feet), Diente* (17,061 feet), Pirámide Blanca* (17,159 feet), Ilusionita (16,897 feet), Ilusión (17,487 feet) and Aguja Negra (17,356 feet). (First ascents are marked thus: *.) In all they made twenty-five ascents there, ten of them firsts. On August 17 they returned to LaPaz for ten days. They then moved to Base Camp at 14,000 feet at Aguas Calientes in order to climb in the Illampu group. On August 31 Golob and Mihelic climbed to the summit of Illampu (20,873 feet). Expedition members also climbed P5830 (19,128 feet) and P Schulzei (19,456 feet) to the east of Illampu and Pico del Norte (19,784 feet) as well as P5250 (17,225 feet), which lies south of Schulze. They descended to Ancoma on September 4.

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