South America, Peru, Chichiccapac and Other Peaks of the Cordillera Carabaya

Publication Year: 1966.

Chichiccapac and Other Peaks of the Cordillera Carabaya. We arrived at Base Camp on July 4. It had taken us five days to explore the country and to find a site for Base Camp and three days to move everything into the area. A few days were spent in sorting out food and tents, and then we began work. A reconnaissance was made of Chichiccapac prior to an ascent, and two members left camp on a combined geological and geographical trip. Our botanist began his mammoth task of deciding just what to collect. Within the next week Chichiccapac (18,426 feet) was climbed, the peak having been previously climbed by Ghiglione in 1959 from the east, by a much easier route. (Apparently the Keele climbers were unaware of the second ascent of the peak by the Englishmen Simon Clark, Beverly Holt and G. Francis, with J. Cárdenas also in 1959, about eight days after the Italian climb. They apparently used the same route as the Keele climbers. —Editor.) After a few days rest we made a serious attempt on Haynaccapac (18,750 feet) or "Tower,” which looked difficult from every aspect. Nearly a week was spent finding a route to the summit. (First ascent by Cole and Kendell, 1960) It was shortly after this that we were disturbed by a robbery, which caused the loss of several days during the investigation. Having written off the equipment as lost, we recommenced climbing after a few days’ delay and moved to another high camp for a prolonged stay. It was from this site that we were able to climb ten more peaks including "Screwdriver,” the most difficult peak of the range. These varied from 18,000 to 19,200 feet with various degrees of difficulty. Members of the party were Peter Webster, Geoffrey Bonney, Andrew Tomlinson, Brian Chase, Peter Floyd and myself as leader. (The Editor regrets that after Mr. Gallagher was kind enough to send him this report, he was unable to make further contact with him to clear up such matters as to exactly what peaks were climbed. The usually accepted altitudes for Chichiccapac and Haynaccapac have been substituted here, which are considerably lower than those submitted. The range of altitudes given for the other peaks is printed as submitted in the report. —Editor. )

Rodney Gallagher, University of Keele (England)