American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Peru, Cordillera Huayhuash

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1966

Cordillera Huayhuash. Kwansai University’s expedition was led by Dr. Hirohito Sugihara and consisted of Akira Kozuki, Kunio Hisano, Yoshihiko Kondo, Tsutomu Nakano, Toshimi Yonekawa, Yoshihiro Ikeuchi, Shin-ichi Hibi and Yuichi Hasegawa. Leaving Lima on June 12, they went via Chiquián and Pocopa to Base Camp at Ninacocha. Until in the field, they did not know that Jirishanca Norte had already been climbed. They attempted it anyhow, beginning reconnaissance on June 17. Because of bad weather and unfavorable conditions, they gave up after Hasegawa and Nakano had reached 18,000 feet on June 29. On July 5 they bivouacked on the glacier northeast of Jirishanca Chico; the next day they reached the col between Jirishanca Chico and the east peak, but failed to climb the east ridge. A falling rock injured a climber at 17,700 feet. From then until August 3 the weather was nearly continuous rain and snow. They placed Base Camp on Carnacocha. On July 30 Yonekawa and the Peruvian porter Solano made the first ascent of Santa Rosa Este (18,301 feet). On July 31 they began their attempt on Siulâ Grande and Siulâ Chico, getting to the northwest ridge, and on August 1 they reached about 20,175 feet.

Ichiro Yoshizawa, Japanese Alpine Club

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