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South America, Peru, Attempt on Yerupajá, Cordillera Huayhuash

Attempt on Yerupajá, Cordillera Huayhuash. On July 8 Jorge Ruiz Luque, Eduardo Klenk, Carlos Comesaña and I established Base Camp on Carhuacocha. We set up another camp at 18,000 feet on the Yerupajá- Siulá plateau where we did not stay for any length of time but which we rather used for acclimatization. On the 17th Comesaña and I climbed the south face of the south peak of Yerupajá but had to give up some 15 feet below the peak because of impossibly loose, dangerous snow conditions. We had nearly climbed a 3500-foot wall with an average slope of 68° in two days, with a bivouac, nearly continual storm and 0° temperatures.

José Luis Fonrouge, Centro Andino Buenos Aires