American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Peru, Peruvian Ascents

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1966

Peruvian Ascents. The following ascents were made in 1964 but remained unreported until this year. On July 23 G. Murillo, J. Cancio Anco and F. Gutiérrez climbed Aricoma Sur (18,225 feet), where they named a glacier for César Morales Arnao, and Aricoma Norte (17,881 feet), where they named a glacier for Haydee Bruno. The next day Murillo, Cancio, D. Latorre and J. Ramos climbed Kunurana Noroeste or Huaman- poco (18,865 feet). These first ascents were made in the Cordillera La Raya. In 1965 a number of climbs were made in the Cordillera Blanca (first ascents marked *): an ascent of Urus Este (17,782 feet) on July 27 by Alcides Ames and Justiniano Huamán; Ishinca Este (18,143 feet), eighth ascent, and Ishinca Oeste (17,142 feet) on July 29 by A. Ames, F. Moreno, V. Tarazona Soto and J. Huamán; Yurakraju* (16,995 feet) west of Santa Cruz and south of Quebrada Yuraccocha on July 20 by A. Ames and Pedro Baltazar; Kaikoraju* (17,881 feet) on August 15 by Fortunato Mautino and A. Ames; Yankururish* (19,095 feet) both just north of Alpamayo on August 16 by F. Mautino and A. Ames; Ishinca Este, ninth ascent, and Ishinca Oeste on August 22 by a mixed Peruvian- French group consisting of A. Ames, R. Garrote, C. Bousquet and B. Etchegoyhen; Urus Este on August 25 by Ames, Garrote, Etchegoyhen and E. Valles. In the Cordillera Huatapallana on June 10 I. Mamani, S. Ramos, J. Melgar, M. Vargas, L. Martínez and C. Ledesma made the second ascent of Hichu (17,717 feet). (First ascent by Fred and Alice Dunn, and Dick Kimball, 1953. — Editor.) Schoolboy groups made a number of ascents; Jatunchacua Este (17,061 feet) (South of the Raura) on June 5 and Jatunchacua Central (18,504 feet) on June 6 by the Club Andino Escolar 380 of Oyón, directed by G. Zuñiga and A. Quinteros; Rajucu- sunan (16,404 feet) on June 19 by the Club Andino Escolar 387 of Navân, directed by N. Robles; Potrero Grande (16,765 feet) on July 19 by the Club Andino Escolar 3769 of Cochamarca, directed by Maximo Luna and Rajucusunan Grande Este (16,989 feet) on July 20 by the same group; Jatunchucua Ichic (16,995 feet) on September 12 by a mixed group of the new Club Andinista Huarancolca de Churín, made up of students and teachers from Cochamarca and Naván, directed by M. Luna.

César Morales Arnao, Club Andino Peruano

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