American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Peru, Huascaran and Quitaraju

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1966

Huascarán and Quitaraju. On July 10 Paul Müller and Albert Fellinger of the Swiss Solothurn Expedition with the Peruvian porter Felipe Mautino reached the summit of the north peak of Huascarán (21,834 feet) in bad weather, which turned back their companions Dölf Reist and Otto Zbinden from the higher south summit. The latter pair returned the next day to climb the north peak. The group then headed north to the Quebrada Alpamayo. On July 23, from Camp between Quitaraju and Alpamayo, Fellinger and Reist climbed Quitaraju (19,850 feet), while Zbinden and Hanspeter Jenni started up the south ridge of Alpamayo. Jenni was not well and was unable to continue; Zbinden followed the tracks of the others to the summit of Quitaraju. Expedition leader Dr. Jürg Ammon and Müller meanwhile climbed a steep rock peak of 18,375 feet which lay in front of Quitaraju. On July 25, Jenni and Felipe Mautino again climbed Quitaraju.

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