American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Peru, Iowa Mountaineers' Climbs in Quebrada Ishinca, Cordillera Blanca

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1966

Iowa Mountaineers’ Climbs in Quebrada Ishinca, Cordillera Blanca. In July, 44 members and eight porters, led by John Ebert, climbed in the Quebrada Ishinca. A truck hauled all expedition food and equipment from Huaraz to Colion, whence it was taken the 12 miles by pack train to near the head of the quebrada. The Base Camp site was excellent for the 51-man operation. The following peaks were ascended: Urus Oeste (17,881 feet) by 34 persons in 8 climbing parties; Urus Central (18,028 feet) on July 18 by Stuart Turner and Charles Satterfield, a first ascent; Urus Este (17,782 feet) by 36 person in 11 parties by the regular route and on July 6 by Turner, Bill Steger and Robert Elliott by the northwest ridge, a new route; "el Caballo” (17,740 feet) on July 21 by John Filsinger and Nick Ellena, who approached it from the lower summit ridge of Urus Este, a first ascent (This is a lower summit of Urus Este, northeast of the main peak. — Editor.); Nevado Ishinca (18,143 feet) by 32 members in 9 parties by the regular route and on June 23, by the northeast ridge from the Ishinca-Palcaraju col by Turner, William Bassett, Jonathan Hough and Satterfield, a new route; Tocllaraju (19,790 feet) by 24 persons in 9 parties; Ranrapalca (20,216 feet) by 13 persons in 3 parties; and Palcaraju Oeste (20,046 feet) on July 21 by Harold Walton, Satterfield and Steger. The ascent of Huascarán was cancelled due to the evacuation problems associated with the accident on Ranrapalca on July 21 when Roger S. Whitney, M.D. and Thomas Heim fell to their death on the descent.

John Ebert

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