American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Peru, Yanamarey Sur, Quisuarraju, Millishraju I and II, Artesonraju, and Curicashajana, Cordillera Blanca

  • Climbs And Expeditions
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  • Publication Year: 1966

Yanamarey Sur, Quisuarraju, Millishraju I and II, Artesonraju, and Curicashajana, Cordillera Blanca. Our party was a mixture of first-class with intermediate alpinists; some members took their wives along. We were Bruno and Ruth Boiler, Fréderic and Mariette Comtesse, Dr. Georg Hartmann, Ernst Reiss, Hansheiri and Lotti Spoerry, Eugen and Gaby Steiger, and myself as leader. Reiss and Hartmann made the first ascent of Yanamarey Sur (16,913 feet), near the Punta Cahuish on July 20 in one day from Monterrey. We left Caraz on July 22 and established Base Camp two days later at Atunquisuar in the upper part of the Quebrada Santa Cruz. The first ascent of a summit (17,651 feet) in the southeast ridge of Quitaraju, called by us Quisuarraju, was made through the valley leading north from Base Camp towards Alpamayo and over east slopes to the summit. It was easy rock-climbing. This was climbed on July 26 by Emilio Angeles, Boiler, the Steigers and me and on August 3 by the Comtesses, the Spoerrys and Martin Fernandez. East of Artesonraju there is a glacier-filled basin, surrounded by Artesonraju itself on the right, by the Nevado Parón at the head and a ridge of ice-covered summits on the left, all about 18,200 feet, leading north-northeast from the Nevado Parón towards Taulliraju. We propose to call them Millishraju (Twins) as two of them are nearly identical. The second summit from the south, Millishraju II (18,045 feet), was climbed for the first time on July 29 directly to the summit through its west face by Hartmann and me. It was moderate to steep ice. The first summit from the south, Millishraju I (18,078 feet), was climbed on July 30 by Emilio Angeles, Boiler, Comtesse and the Spoerrys over its south ridge. Hartmann, Reiss, Steiger and I made the second ascent of Artesonraju by a new route on August 1. (First ascent in 1932 by Schneider and Hein.) Camp I was established at 17,750 feet right under the northeast face. From there the summit (19,767 feet) was reached over the northeast face and the north ridge in eight hours. The final pitch of some 650 feet was extremely steep. The Pucahirca ridge ends in a very distinctive summit of some 18,075 feet, directly above Base Camp, which we called Curicashajana (“funguslike Summit”). Though on the ridge which extends southwest from Giovanni XXIII and Bergamo, its character as an independent peak is beyond question. We climbed it twice over its southwest glacier and then directly through the west face. The final 650 feet were interesting ice-work of moderate difficulty. It was climbed on August 5 by Comtesse, Hartmann, Reiss and the Spoerrys and on August 6 by Boiler, the Steigers and me. On August 11 we reached the hut in the Quebrada Yanaraju at 16,400 feet. On the 13th we tried Ranrapalca over its northeast face. Due to the complete lack of snow and very hard ice, we followed the rocky northeast ridge, reaching the northeast summit at 3:30 P.M. after ice and rock climbing of intermediate difficulty. (Boiler, Hartmann, E. Angeles, Reiss, the Steigers, the Spoerrys and I.) From there to the main summit is an easy walk over open snowfields, but we returned from the northeast summit in order to avoid a bivouac for the ladies.

Ruedi Schatz, Swiss Alpine Club

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