American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Colombia, Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1966

Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta. Our expedition was divided into two groups. The first, fifteen persons, most of whom were inexperienced in mountaineering, for the most part did not get far into the high-peak region, though three climbed Pico Ojeda. I was organizer and leader of the other group. Our primary objective was to reach the unexplored western part of the range, beyond Pico Simons (18,570 feet), which we hoped to climb probably as a second ascent by a new route, and to climb any new peaks found. We also hoped to attempt some of the peaks on the largely untouched ridge leading east from Pico Colon. We did open a route to the western peaks, discovered and climbed three glaciated peaks west of Pico Simons. The peak west of Simons (c. 17,400 feet) was climbed by me on August 17 and named "Pico el Profesor.” The next peak west (c. 16,500 feet) was climbed on August 19 by Richard H. Goodwin and Melvin Tobias, who named it "Pico Nueva Vista.” That same day I climbed a third glaciated peak beyond (c. 16,400 feet). On August 18 Goodwin and I climbed Pico Simons up the western glacier. We found the cairn and record tube left near the summit by the Mar- millods, when they made the first ascent in 1943. On the ridge between the Picos Colón and Ojeda, we made two ascents. On August 13 I climbed Pico Juanita (16,820 feet), which had previously been climbed by the Cunningham party. Goodwin made the third ascent on August 21. The next day Goodwin and Tobias made the first ascent of the highest peak on the ridge east of Colon (c. 17,700 feet), naming it “Nieve de Naboba.”

John D. Peyton, Explorers Club of Pittsburgh

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