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North America, Canada, Selkirks, Northern Selkirks

Northern Selkirks. As an adjunct to the completion of the Alpine Club of Canada’s Great Cairn Cabin (north of Sir Sandford, 6 bunks) and the Fairy Meadow Cabin (12 bunks), Ben Ferris and I organized a few climbs last July. Don Sprecker, Rob Wallace and I did the northwest ridge of Quadrant and found it not nearly as exposed as we had expected; the numerous gendarmes were easily passed on alternate sides. Sprecker led Mrs. Goddard and Margie Ferris on the first ascent of the most easterly peak of the Gothics, of Adamant granite, rather prosaically named Outpost. They ascended the prominent gully on the northwest side of the ridge connecting with Quadrant. Our final climb of consequence in the Fairy Meadow area was a north-to-south traverse of Unicorn. The previous traverses had been from south to north. While completing the Great Cairn Cabin, Rob Wallace and I pushed a new route up along the south side of the Sir Sandford Glacier. This is of mountaineering consequence as it is crevasse-free (crossing below the icefall) and secure from all avalanche hazard. This route provides an alternate approach to the Ravelin Col and simplifies even further the old Michael route on Sir Sandford.

William L. Putnam