American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Canada, Yukon Territory, Mount Kennedy, Second Ascent

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1966

Mount Kennedy, Second Ascent. On April 9 Michael Shor, Arthur Fitch and I were flown from our Mount King George Base Camp to about 8500 feet on Cathedral Glacier. We planned to follow the route taken by the first-ascent party a few weeks earlier. After taking a rest day following our five-day first ascent of King George, we had a day of high winds and snow. Camp I was established the next day at the top of the icefall at 9500 feet. The moderately crevassed route to Camp I was without difficulty, though on the descent this section of the route was considerably changed because of movement of the ice. We set up Camp II on April 14 at 10,500 feet and were confined there for another day by high winds and heavy wet snow. We left camp at 4:20 A.M. on April 16 in fair weather and reached the summit in the early afternoon after spending about 45 minutes dug in during a whiteout. The most difficult part of the ascent was crossing the very narrow ridge in high winds for several rope- lengths. Here the ridge drops abruptly for 5000 feet to the left and more moderately to the right for 3000 feet. We were flown out on April 17.

Wayne G. Kellner, Appalachian Mountain Club

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