Cannon Mountain, VMC Direct. The Old Man of the Mountain’s rock profile is a familiar sight to many Americans but less known and far more important to climbers is Cannon Mountain’s east wall, which extends south from the face along Franconia Notch. It rises in a single 1000-foot sweep of solid New Hampshire granite. Because of the length, height and uncertain, very often severe weather of this largest unbroken wall in the East, its ascent is a more serious undertaking than the usual Eastern rock climb. The cliff is exfoliated like a Sierra Nevada dome with typical overhangs and arches. A number of excellent routes have been put up (See Appalachia, June 1965, pp. 518-538.) and a direct route, up the centre and sheerest part of the face, had been attempted several times. In September Dick Williams, Art Gran and I completed the Direct in a day and a quarter of climbing. This was the finest climb any of us had done in the East and we recommend it to anyone wanting to become acquainted with the problems and rewards of a major technical climb. The rock for the most part is excellent and the climbing is typical of a Yosemite climb with its small holds, laybacks and artificial problems. And unique for this part of the country, a bivouac can be included for extra adventure. 1st pitch: Up the right side of a flying buttress to the right of the route called by Whipple "Sam’s Swan Song." 150 feet, F4. 2nd pitch: Nail up on inside corner, 130 feet, A2, F6. 3rd pitch: Continue up the corner to where it turns into an arch. Climb over the arch. 130 feet, A2, F7. 4th pitch: Straight up to a large ceiling. Nail to the right and then go over. 100 feet, A2, F4. 5th pitch: Free climb up on small holds, traverse left and then up. 100 feet, A3, F7. 6th pitch: We nailed up to an overhang, traversed left around the corner, then up and back right. 110 feet, A3, F7. (It would be better to nail straight up over the overhang.) 7th pitch: Pass a block on the left and then angle to the right, ending up in a sort of alcove under some large overhangs. 90 feet, A3, F7. 8th pitch: Traverse to the right and around to the right side of a large overhang. Continue straight up to the bivouac ledge (the only ledge so far on the climb) 80 feet, A2, F6. 9th pitch: Jam up a perfect crack. The angle eases off above this point. The rest of the climb is on small holds. 140 feet, F6. 10th pitch: Go up to a good ledge and traverse left. 130 feet, F6. 11th pitch: 120 feet, F4. 12th pitch: 110 feet, F5.

Yvon Chouinard