American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Colorado, Black Canyon of the Gunnison, Green Pillar

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1966

Black Canyon of the Gunnison, Green Pillar. Brian Marts and I climbed this 1700-foot wall in September in two days. The difficult and complicated route starts directly across from the Chasm View Wall. After 120 feet of lower Class 5, we got to the difficult climbing. A long crack of F9 and A3 ended on a small stance. The next lead led up and right. Above, we followed a trough for two leads before traversing right into a corner. We nailed the crack above to a large ledge and to a belay 40 feet higher. We worked up to the right into another corner with three bolts. A long lead took us to a bivouac ledge. It rained on the second day as we dealt with great difficulties, using many rurps and knife-blades, in poor shallow cracks and in an overhanging rotten chimney. The last lead was a rotten vertical wall, done in complete darkness with flashlights in our mouths. NCCS Grade V, F8, A4.

Layton Kor

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