North America, United States, Colorado, Steamboat Rock, Southeast Face, Dinosaur National Monument

Publication Year: 1966.

Steamboat Rock, Southeast Face, Dinosaur National Monument. Mike Couvington, Brian Marts and I made the first ascent in September. The route goes up the left side of the face, where it overhangs throughout its 700 feet. The first two leads were all aid and very difficult. The third turned into free climbing. This was the first day’s high point and leaving ropes in place, we descended to an unethical bivouac in the tourist park across the river. The lead above our high point was difficult mixed climbing and ended in a huge cave below a 30-foot roof. The next one nailed first left and then right around the roof into an overhanging, block-filled chimney. We then nailed left out of the chimney, through a tunnel and onto a spacious ledge. The last pitch traversed left for 25 feet and then followed a steep groove to the summit. It took us 14 hours on two days. NCCS Grade V, F8, A4.

Layton Kor