North America, United States, Utah, Climbs in Wasatch Mountains

Publication Year: 1966.

Climbs in Wasatch Mountains. Mark McQuarrie and I made the first winter ascent of the northeast face of Mount Ogden. The nine leads took eight hours in a bad snowstorm. The crux pitch was an ice-and-snow-filled chimney topped by an overhang in the center of the face. In March we two made the first ascent of the "Fin” in Little Cottonwood Canyon. The route ascended the center of the buttress. It was F7 friction and face climbing with six bolts and 15 pitons for protection. This six- hour climb was the hardest yet done by local climbers. We also made the first ascent of Coal Pit Buttress in Little Cottonwood Canyon, climbing the center of the buttress, the chief difficulty being a large overhang on the lower part of the face. F7, A3; 8 hours.

George Lowe, Wasatch Mountain Club