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North America, United States, Oregon, Mount Jefferson, East Arête

Mount Jefferson, East Arête. On August 23, 1964, Jock McPherson and I crossed the White Water Glacier to the longest continuous rock route on the mountain’s east side, rising from the glacier at the 8000-foot level. Once on the rock, climbing was done unroped because of the extremely rotten and unstable conditions, and on the vertical face near the top because there were no belay possibilities. Above the arête, 300 yards of belaying on ice gained us the summit, and we were two very thankful and subdued climbers.

Phil Lizee, unattached