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North America, United States, Washington—Cascade Mountains, Cutthroat Peak, South Face of the South Buttress

Cutthroat Peak, South Face of the South Buttress. Our route starting at the large obvious chimney above and left of the snowfield below the south face was first climbed by Steve Marts, Fred Stanley, and me. About 300 feet of enjoyable unroped climbing in the chimney ends on a large ledge about one-third the way up the face. At the first tree left on the ledge, several class-V leads reach another small tree below a small roof; the roof is passed to the left on a weak aid piton and tension. A traverse left leads to another large ledge and an obvious chimney which ends suddenly; it is possible to climb out up a rotten corner and to get to another chimney. Several more ledges and class-V leads reach the top of the buttress. Nineteen pitons (no bongs or knife-blades) were placed on the exhilarating one-day climb.

Jock McPherson, unattached