Tumwater Canyon, Wall Street Route on Noontime Rock. This direct route is probably the steepest-angle, and most strenuous climb in Tumwater Canyon. Dave Beckstead and I explored it in mid-winter, then completed the climb in early spring. The route begins ominously with pitons beneath a fragile flake, and then up its outside edge for 80 vibrating feet; a second flake of smaller proportions is nailed, directly above, and involves only slightly less nerve-wracking climbing. From its tip a ten-bolt ladder leads to a pitch of fifth class climbing, and a final aid pitch that features a very long, awkward flaring overhang. This was overcome with the ingenious use of wide bong-bongs, placed from very awkward positions. A final wall rising out of the deep crack in the overhang required some difficult aid, one bolt, and delicate free climbing. The climb required two days to complete, 36 pitons and 14 bolts.

Fred Beckey